Learning to drive is quite complex as you can imagine. There is so much to take in when you are on a driving lesson you can return home exhausted and even feel like you have forgotten everything you have been doing. This is where this learner zone can help you revise subjects whilst in the comfort of your own home. You may even learn something brand new or pick up a few tips. If your learning to drive with parents this section will be an essential tool in confirming that you are doing what you should be doing. Afterall the driving test has changed over the years and what was acceptable when your parents took a test may well be out of date today. Have a browse and see what you think. Don't forget to tell your friends about the site. If you can think of any other subjects you would like to see more information about then don't hesitate to let us know. Any feedback will be welcomed!

Show Me, Tell Me

• Open the bonnet, identify where you would check the engine oil level and tell me how you would check that the engine has sufficient oil? - Locate dipstick - check max and min marker.
• Open the bonnet, identify where you would check the engine coolant level and tell me how you would check that the engine has the correct level? - Locate header tank - check the high and low mark. If it is to be topped up NEVER EVER undo cap until the engine is cold or you will be scalded with a pressurized jet of water.
• Identify where the windscreen washer reservoir is and tell me how you would check the windscreen washer level?- Lift off cap and check level.
• Open the bonnet, identify where the brake fluid reservoir is and tell me how you would check that you have a safe level of hydraulic brake fluid? - Locate the reservoir and check max/min mark.
• Tell me how you would check that the brakes are working before starting a journey? - Brakes should not feel spongy or slack and should not pull to one side. Test as you set off.
• Tell me how you would check the tyres to ensure that they have sufficient tread depth and that their general condition is safe to use on the road? - No cuts or bulges in tyre wall. 1.6mm tread for ¾ of the tyres central width for the whole circumference.
• Tell me where you would find the information for the recommended tyre pressures for this car and how tyre pressures should be checked? - Manufacturers guide book. Check with a gauge when cold including the spare.
• Tell me how you make sure your head restraint is correctly adjusted so it provides the best protection in the event of a crash? - Adjusted so that the rigid part of restraint is at least as high as the eyes or top of the ears and as close to the back of the head as possible.
• Tell me how you would check that the headlights and tail lights are working - Explain that you would switch on lights, walk around vehicle and look.
• Tell me how you would know if there was a problem with your anti lock braking system - Warning light (ABS) should illuminate if there is a fault with the anti lock braking system.
• Show me how you would set the demister controls to clear all the windows effectively; this should include both front and rear screens - Set all relevant controls including: fan, temperature, air direction/source and heated screen to clear windscreen and windows.
• Show me how you switch your headlight from dipped to main beam and explain how you would know the main beam is on whilst inside the car - Operate switch (with ignition on if necessary) and check the main beam warning light is illuminated.
• Show me how you would switch on the rear fog lights and explain when you would use them. (no need to exit vehicle) - Operate switch (turn on dipped headlights and ignition if necessary) check warning light is on and then explain use.
• Show me how you would clean the windscreen using the windscreen washer and wipers - Ignition on if necessary and operate control to wash and wipe windscreen.
• Show me how you would check that the power assisted steering is working before starting a journey? - Steering is heavy whilst engine is off, pull lightly on steering wheel and start engine, steering should become noticeably lighter. (Ensure precautionary checks before starting engine).
• Show me how you would check that the direction indicators are working - Switch electrics on and activate the indicator switch, then look at each light or use hazard warning lights.
• Show me how you would check that the horn is working (off road only) - By pressing the horn button.
• Show me how you would check the handbrake for excessive wear - When the handbrake is pulled on it should stay in place, and should not be at the end of the working travel.
• Show me how you would check that the brake lights are working on this car - Ignition on if necessary, operate brake pedal, make use of reflections in windows garage doors etc, or ask someone to help look at the lights.

Cockpit Drill

When you get into a car you need to carry out a series of checks before you can start the engine and drive away, this routine is known as the cockpit drill. Once seated in the drivers seat you have responsibility for the car and any passengers you are carrying.

• DOORS: Firstly check that all doors are securely closed.
• SEAT: Adjust the seat so that you are seated comfortably and are able to fully depress the clutch pedal with your left foot leaving a slight bend at the knee. To do this you may need to move the seat base forwards or backwards or even adjust the height of your it. The seat back can also be moved forwards or backwards by turning the seat ‘rake’, usually located on the lower sides of the seat back. Don’t forget to adjust the head ‘restraint’ so that it’s furthest point forward is in line with the furthest point back of your head. That way should the car be hit from behind it will restrict your head being thrown backwards too much.
• STEERING: Make sure you can reach all parts of the steering wheel with both hands freely, and whilst holding it in either the ’ten to two’ or ‘quarter to three’ position you should have a slight bend at each elbow. Some steering columns can be raised or lowered by first releasing a catch. Once adjusted ensure it is securely locked back in position.
• SEATBELT: Put your seatbelt on making sure there are no kinks or twists in it and it lies flat across your chest. This should help prevent the belt injuring you in the event of an accident.
• MIRRORS: Adjust your mirrors to cut down ‘blind spots’ surrounding the car. Whilst being seated the way you are intending to drive adjust the rear view mirror with your left hand so that you can see the whole of the back window, with it being slightly offset to the right to see more to your ‘offside’. Be careful not to get fingerprints on the glass as it will obscure your view once it gets dark and following vehicles headlight illuminate the prints! The glass in the rear view mirror is flat and gives a true picture of what is behind you without size or distance being distorted. Adjust the door mirrors with the horizon running horizontally across the centre of the mirror and the sides of your own car should be visible too. This is important so that you know where everything you see is in relation to you. Door mirror glass is often convex to give a wide angled view but in turn distorts the image making everything seem further away than it really is. Therefore never use your door mirrors to accurately judge another vehicles speed or distance.

To help you with the cockpit drill, remember D.S.S.S.M.

One final thing, before starting the engine, check the handbrake is on firmly and the gear lever is in neutral. (Some drivers leave the car in gear to prevent the car rolling away in the event of a handbrake failure).

Moving Off

Before you start the engine you need to carry out some precautionary checks. Make sure the handbrake is applied and that the gear lever is in neutral.

To start the engine, turn the key until the warning lights are all displayed. If your car is diesel you may need to wait for the orange coloured glow plug warning light to go out before starting the engine. Turn the key one more stage and the engine will start. Once started release the key and ensure the oil and ignition warning lights go out.

1. Clutch pedal down fully.
2. Select 1st gear.
3. Set the gas and keep it steady.
4. Slowly bring the clutch up until your either hear the engine tone change or feel the car ‘jolt’ slightly. Then keep the pedal still.
5. Observations using mirrors and right shoulder blind spot check.
6. Put on a right signal if there is anyone around who will benefit.
7. Release the handbrake.
8. If necessary check your right blind spot again.
9. Slowly bring the clutch up and the car will begin to move.
10. Apply more gas as necessary.
11. Bring the clutch up fully.

As you move away do so at an appropriate speed to join in and keep up with the traffic flow.
Ensure as you move away you are not causing anyone to have to alter their course or speed to avoid you.
Don’t sit at the side of the road with your right signal flashing. If someone stops to let you out you have in effect caused someone to alter their speed and so you will be faulted accordingly. Only apply your right signal if necessary when you are actually going to move away.
Once you are moving try to keep your left foot off the clutch pedal. If you are touching it you will be slightly engaging the clutch and it will suffer premature wear as a result.

Stopping

Before bringing the car to a stop you will need to select somewhere that is a Safe, Convenient and Legal Place (S.C.A.L.P.).
To give you an idea of where you can’t stop you should avoid, bus stops, driveways, bends, brows of hills, zig-zag markings, double yellow lines, red routes, school entrances to name but a few. Use your common sense and ensure traffic can safely pass you.

Use the MSM mirror signal manoeuvre routine.

1. Check mirrors.
2. Signal if necessary (only omit if there isn’t anyone at all anywhere in view).
3. Guide your car towards the side of the road.
4. Cover the footbrake and clutch.
5. Apply the footbrake gently to start slowing the car.
6. Just before the car comes to a stop put the clutch down fully and keep it there.
7. Apply the handbrake (push the button in so it is applied silently and release it to lock handbrake in place).
8. Select neutral.
9. Cancel signal if it was applied.

Use progressive braking techniques when stopping the car. To do this you need to brake very lightly to start with, and increase the pressure as necessary. As the car starts to slow right down almost to a stop, you release the pressure, not completely but enough to allow the car to roll on a little to a smooth stop. If you were to keep the fully applied pressure throughout, the car would come to a sudden halt as you slow, which can feel uncomfortable for you and your passengers!

When you apply your footbrake, you will illuminate red brake lights at the rear of your car to show following traffic that you are slowing. If you feel that you need to do this in advance of stopping, it only takes the slightest amount of pressure on the pedal for them to come on.

Try not to put your clutch down too early when stopping, only when you feel that the car is about to start stalling. If you do it too soon the car will be rolling along for some distance. This is referred to as coasting, the stability of the car is compromised and the brakes have to work much harder to stop the car.

If you are driving along in say 4th gear and you are bringing the car to a stop at the side of the road, there is no need to change down through the gears. In the good old days drivers were taught to do this for engine braking to help slow the car down. Now cars are much lighter and have more efficient brakes, it is acceptable and in fact preferred for you to leave the car in whatever gear you are in and just stop. Once you have stopped you can then select neutral.

Hazards and MSPSL

MSPSL stands for Mirrors, Signal, Position, Speed and Look. As a driver you will be doing this all the time whether you are approaching a junction, roundabout a parked car or even the location of a school. You must have heard of MSM, Mirror, Signal, Manoeuvre ? Well it’s a bit like that only we are preparing for an actual or potential change in speed or positioning of our car.

Firstly let’s look at hazards. Some hazards are actual features of a road like a bend, a brow of a hill, a junction and roundabouts etc. Some features are not always there like parked cars or road works. You might have bad weather affecting the surface of a road like heavy rain, ice, snow or even fallen trees in strong wind. Some hazards are even moving like a cyclist or a pedestrian crossing the road. The list could be huge but there is a routine you can follow when you identify a hazard to ensure it is negotiated safely.

• Mirrors: Firstly check your mirrors, think about what you see and act on it. Do you know what the following vehicles intentions are? Is the following vehicle considering your own intentions?
• Signal: Decide on whether giving a signal will benefit another road user in understanding what you are intending to do. If so, give the signal in good time. In some circumstances signal timing is crucial if you want to avoid it being misleading.
• Position: Having assessed your surroundings decide on the best way to negotiate the hazard. Sometimes you may have to position yourself as to make your intentions obvious or even comply with road markings or signs.
• Speed: Adjust your speed appropriately by either accelerating, decelerating or braking smoothly.
• Gear: If necessary change to a suitable gear for greater control.
• Look: This is the moment where you will make the final decision as to whether to continue your present course of action or change your plan depending on what you see. L.A.D.A

Look
Access	the situation
Decide	what needs to be done
Act	upon your decision to wait or continue

Junctions

When a approaching a junction there is a routine you can follow to ensure you negotiate it safely. This is called MSPSL. Mirror, signal, position, speed and look.
The steps below refer to 30mph roads.

Left turn minor to major

1. MIRROR: On approach about 10 car lengths away check your rear view mirror and left door mirror to check following traffic.
2. SIGNAL: As soon as you have checked your mirrors apply your left signal. Ensure there are no other junctions or major openings on the left before the junction as your signal may give the impression you are turning into one of them. If so, delay the signal until you have passed them.
3. POSITION: Keep to the left and follow the curvature of the kerb so when you come to a stop you are at an angle ready to drive away.
4. SPEED: Brake progressively on approach to the junction so your speed reduces gradually to avoid harsh braking when nearing the line. Change gear if necessary. You should approach all junctions with the intention of stopping and only go when you can see it is actually clear.
5. LOOK: You will need to look both left and right. Look to the left to see if there are any parked vehicles that will force you to turn onto the other side of the road. If so you will need to give way to traffic from the left. There may be parked cars on the opposite side of the road forcing traffic from the left to approach you on the wrong side. Again you will need to give way as to avoid a head on collision. When looking right you will obviously give way to traffic, but if someone approaches with a left signal to turn into your road and they are close enough to hit you should their signal be wrong then wait. Once you see a second sign such as the car slowing heavily or the car actually starting to turn then you will know for sure that it is then safe. If the vehicle is large such as a bus or lorry, be aware of vehicles behind it that are obscured from your view. They may try and overtake the turning vehicle, and you would be in danger if you are in the process of emerging. If you can’t see then don’t go. Think LADA.

• LOOK
• ASSESS what you see.
• DECIDE what course of action to take.
• ACT upon your decision.

Right turn minor to major

1. MIRROR: On approach about 10 car lengths away check your rear view mirror and right door mirror to check following traffic.
2. SIGNAL: As soon as you have checked your mirrors apply your right signal again checking for junctions or openings before the end of the road. Delay signal if necessary.
3. POSITION: Keep near the centre line of the road you are on, and when you come to a stop keep the car pointing straight forward with your wheels straight.
4. SPEED: Again brake progressively and approach with the intention of stopping and only emerge when safe.
5. LOOK: Look left and right with the same considerations as above.

Left turn major to minor

1. MIRROR: About 10 car lengths away check mirrors.
2. SIGNAL: Signal, again delay as necessary if there are any other openings.
3. POSITION: Keep to your normal driving position about a metre from the kerb.
4. SPEED: Brake progressively and reduce your speed, changing gear as necessary. If you are driving fast you would normally change down to second gear in order to turn. If a gear change is required you must ensure that as soon as the change is made you bring the clutch back up. If the clutch is left depressed the car will be rolling (coasting) and if left in this state you may find the car uncontrollable as you try and turn. Ideally your speed will be about 10mph as you make the turn.
5. LOOK: Look into the new road to see if it is safe to turn into, if the road is narrow with parked cars you may have to wait for another car to emerge before you yourself can turn into it. If pedestrians are already in the process of crossing the road you will have to give way to them.

Right turn major to minor

1. MIRROR: About 10 car lengths away check mirrors.
2. SIGNAL: Signal, delaying if necessary.
3. POSITION: Position near to the centre of the road. You will need to give way to oncoming traffic. If you do have to come to a stop, try not to let the front of the car go beyond the centre of the road you are turning into as you may make it very difficult to negotiate. Also ensure you keep your car straight with the wheels kept straight, that way should you be hit from behind your car will be pushed forward. Sitting with your car at an angle or with the wheels turned can be dangerous. If you were hit, you would be pushed across the road head on into whatever vehicle is approaching you! If you are waiting to turn and not sure if you have time, ask yourself if you would have time to walk across the road, if so you would have time to drive it. Assuming that there are no approaching vehicles to wait for and you are free to turn, you must not turn too early and ‘cut the corner’, crossing over the centre line of the road you are turning into. To avoid this wait until the front of your car is nearly level with middle of the new road and turn. The main thing is, look into the road you are turning into and look where you want the car to go, and you will put the car in that place.
4. SPEED: If free to turn, again use second gear and do so about 10mph or as necessary.
5. LOOK: As above assess the new road.

If the roads are faster than 30mph you would need to start the process earlier, as it more about how much time you give to show your intentions as opposed to how far from a junction you are.
As stated above, approach a give way line with the intention of stopping and only go when you can see it is safe. That way if you can’t see then you are not going to pull out and endanger anyone. Your approach to the junction would also be very smooth and planned. Once you start thinking the opposite and approaching junctions with the intention of just going and only stopping if you see traffic will cause problems. Firstly your observations will be poor and should you see traffic you will most likely then brake very heavily, affecting your positioning and possibly resulting in your car being rear ended.

Junctions with limited visibility are referred to as ‘closed’ junctions. Those that have a clear view in both directions well before you reach a give way line are called ‘open’ junctions. Open junctions are usually the ones you can emerge from without stopping if clear because you can make that decision on your approach.

Some junctions have such limited visibility they will be marked with a STOP line and STOP sign. You are required by law to completely stop before emerging. On a test it is a good idea to apply the handbrake to prove you have actually stopped, it removes any doubt as to whether you stopped completely or not.

Not so common now are unmarked junctions. An unmarked junction is one without any road markings. Never assume you have priority, it’s best practice to assume you are the one giving way before proceeding.

It’s not essential for you to apply the handbrake every time you stop at a junction. When you first learn to drive you most likely will do it every time for practice and better control. Once you are proficient with the controls of the car then you can decide whether the junction necessitates the use of the handbrake. Apply the handbrake if there is the possibility of the car rolling backwards or you are waiting for more than 3-4 seconds for traffic, or for the sake of pedestrians or other vehicles around you to make the situation safer.

When turning left, remember that the rear wheels take a shorter route than the front, so if you are too close to the kerb the rear wheel may mount or strike it.

When emerging from a junction you are not to cause another road user to have to change course or adjust their speed to avoid you. Once you have emerged check your rear view mirror to see what is behind you. A fast approaching car will mean more urgency with your acceleration to get up to speed.

Failing a test for lack of observation at a junction is in the top ten of faults on a national scale. Probably because test candidates feel they need to be quick at a junction like most other drivers. There are so many accidents around junctions because most people don’t take enough care at them!! Play it safe and check properly before emerging.

Emergency Stop

Not everyone is asked to do an emergency stop on a driving test. Roughly 1 in 3 tests are required to do one, but nevertheless you should perfect the art of stopping in an emergency, as the need is sure to arise at some point. If you are required to do one on test the examiner will ask you to stop at the side of the road first to explain what they would like you to do. They may say something like “In a short while I will ask you to stop as you would in an emergency, the signal I shall give will be stop…(raised hand in the air), when I do this, stop the car as quickly as you can and in full control, as though a child had run out in front of you”. Then do as follows:

• Drive as you normally do, don’t drive along really slow in anticipation. Obviously there shouldn’t be any cars following you and the examiner may or may not look over their shoulder out the back to double check. When the command is given don’t check the mirrors as there is no time, keep both hands on the steering wheel and brake firmly. As the weight of the car is thrown forward the steering will become heavy and harder to control. Just before the car completely stops put the clutch down to prevent the car stalling. You don’t want to put the clutch down too early, as it is good for the ‘engine braking’ to assist the footbrake (I will explain engine braking shortly). When the car has stopped completely put the handbrake on, select neutral and wait. The examiner will then ask you to drive on when you are ready. Prepare the car to go, check over your left shoulder (you may be far away from the kerb allowing room for bikes to pass on the left), check mirrors and then over your right shoulder. If it is safe, drive away. If a car is approaching you when you check around and it looks like they will overtake you, stay put, check again and drive on when safe. Once you are moving the examiner may say something like “Thank you, I will not ask you to do that again”.

  Job Done!

• Skidding: When stopping the car in an emergency you need to brake firmly and progressively to slow the wheels as quickly as possible, almost to the point where the wheels may lock but not enough for it to actually happen. If you do lock the wheels and you skid it will take longer to stop. If you are skidding it may be necessary to release the footbrake for a split second and re-apply them. Hopefully the second time round you won’t skid! If the road is wet or you are on gravel the wheels may lock up sooner as the tyre loses grip, so the braking pressure may not be as hard as on a good firm dry surface. If you are driving on mud, snow or ice where it is virtually impossible to brake firmly, you may have to pump the brakes, quickly braking-releasing-braking-releasing and braking again, each time the car slows a little. This is known as cadence braking and is an extreme form of braking.

  Some cars are equipped with ABS, which is an Anti-locking Braking System. Basically if you brake extremely hard a sensor triggers the system into applying and releasing the brakes very, very fast. The point of which, means, that the wheels should not ‘lock-up’ as described above. The ABS being triggered has a distinctive noise, if you hear it don’t release the pressure on the brake as the system is just doing it’s job. It doesn’t mean you can stop any quicker than a car without ABS but will enable you to steer whilst braking heavily. It is possible for a car even with ABS to lose grip if the surface driven on is very slippery or loose. You should be guided by your vehicle’s handbook, or manual as to what kind of braking system you have and what type of braking style should be applied.

  If the rear wheels of a car lose grip the car may actually start to slide sideways as the rear of the car tries to ‘overtake’ the front which is braking with better effect. Try and steer into the skid, so if the rear is going to your right, steer right a little. Try not to steer too much as you are likely to over correct and spin the other way!

• Engine braking: You have your handbrake, which basically pulls the back brakes on to stop the car rolling away when your stationary. You have your footbrake as described above. There is another kind of braking called ‘engine braking’. Have you noticed that when you take your foot off the gas pedal, the car starts to slow? Well when you do this, the fuel supply is reduced to the engine so it slows down, and slows the car along with it. This is why if your on a downhill slope and you engage a ‘low gear’, the engine helps hold the car back from rolling faster and faster. If you put the clutch down which disconnects the engine from the ‘drivetrain’, the engine braking is lost, and the car will freewheel and roll faster (don’t do it!). This known as coasting, your brakes need to work harder to stop the car too. When we slow or stop a car whether it being gradual or in an emergency, the engine braking contributes a great deal in stabilising the car and helping it to slow in a controlled way.
• The Driver: When cars lose control it’s generally down to driver error. Learn how to recognise factors, which will affect either you or the handling of the car. Driving whilst tired or under the influence of drink or drugs is quite simply going to affect your reactions or ability to assess what the road ahead and is basically illegal. Some medicines carry warnings too that you must not drive if you taking that particular medication. If your reactions are not up to their usual speed, for example maybe you have a cold, recognise it and adjust your speed to give you more time to react. That way you can avoid having to stop in an emergency in the first place. With regards to car handling, think about the road and weather conditions. Look at the roads surface and think about how your grip could be compromised. Think about how rain and ice affect the distances needed to stop. Look at the slope or camber of a road, will the car try and slide in a particular direction if you were to brake hard? Is there a lot of activity by pedestrians either side of the road, or cars trying to pull out of blind junctions? Sometimes other people will force you into taking some action to avoid an accident. If your looking for the clues of what is likely to happen next, and drive at a speed so that you can stop in the distance clear ahead, identify whether the road surface is going to affect your braking ability, you can avoid most ‘emergency stop’ situations in the first place by being ready. If you find it hard to do, then keep your speed down.

Hillstarts

Uphill - Moving away from the side of the road uphill isn’t really anything you should worry about as long as you prepare for the extra burden of gravity acting upon the vehicle before you release the handbrake. Gravity will make the car seem ‘heavier’, so the engine has to work harder to get the car moving. You also need to use your clutch to good effect to stop the car stalling or rolling back. Here’s how:

• Clutch down.
• Select 1st gear.
• Set the gas, the steeper the hill the more gas you need.
• Find the biting point, then keep your foot still. (tip look for the bonnet to rise slightly, if the bonnet rises the car is trying to goforward. As long as you keep it like that you shouldn’t roll backwards once you release the handbrake).
• All round observations including mirrors.
• Signal if necessary.
• Start to release the handbrake.
• Final blind spot check/observations.
• As you fully disengage the handbrake, return your hand to the steering wheel and bring the clutch up slowly and the car will move forward.
• Listen to the engine as you are bringing the clutch up, if it is dying apply more gas to compensate.

Downhill - Moving downhill is much easier as the car wanting to roll forward will aid you moving away. The use of the footbrake is to enable you to control the rate at which the car moves away.

• Clutch down.
• Select 1st gear or even 2nd on some slopes.
• Depress the footbrake fully.
• Release the handbrake.
• All round observations including mirrors.
• Signal if necessary.
• Final blind spot check/observations.
• Release the footbrake (slowly if you want to move away slowly!).
• Clutch up as the car moves away (Don’t take too long as the car may start to roll faster and faster (coasting)).

Because it is possible for handbrakes to fail there are ways in which you can prevent your car from rolling away whilst you leave it parked.

Pointing uphill with a kerb on your left - Leave wheels turned to the right pointing into the road, if the car was to roll the front left tyre will be stopped by the kerb and the car will stay in still. Leaving the car in 1st gear will also prevent the car from rolling backwards. Ensure you put it into neutral before starting the engine!

Pointing downhill with a kerb on your left - Leave wheels turned left pointing towards the kerb, if the car was to roll the front left tyre will be stopped by the kerb, and the car will stay still. Leaving the car in reverse gear will prevent it from rolling forward. Once again you must ensure you put the gear into neutral before starting the engine!

Caution - Bearing in mind what has been said above, gears and wheels being chocked are no substitute for your handbrake, which should be fully engaged and in good working order. Many drivers leave cars in gear, which is why you should always check it is in neutral as part of your precautionary checks before starting the engine. It’s also best to check the handbrake first, if the gear really is holding the car still without the handbrake being fully applied the car will roll as you pull it out of gear and into neutral.!!!

When you are moving away from the side of the road on a hill, bear in mind that large vehicles climbing a hill may have difficulty moving away again if you cause them to slow or stop. If vehicles are descending a hill it will be much harder for them to stop or slow to avoid you if you do not move away quick enough.

Left Reverse

Left reverse is basically reversing around a corner into a road. On a test the examiner will usually ask you to stop at the side of the road just before the road in question. The examiner will point out the road they would like you to reverse into, and ask you to drive past it and stop, then to reverse back into the road, for some distance keeping reasonably close to the kerb.

• Prepare the car in first gear, observations and move away when safe. As you drive past the junction look into the road to assess the kerb line and any hazards within the road itself. Check your mirrors to see if you need to signal to pull in, if so do it once past the centre of the road in question as so to make it obvious you wish to stop after the junction and not turn into it.
• Stop the car about one or two car lengths away from the corner.
• Secure the car and then prepare the car in reverse. All round observations and reverse back when safe. Try and look in the direction of travel and not solely with your door mirror!
• Identify where the corner starts, look for the kerbstone that starts to curve into the road. This is called the point of turn.
• Reverse until your rear nearside wheel is level with it. Now it is time to turn, and is called the critical point. When you steer the front offside corner of the car will swing out into the road and is a danger to other road users. You must check your right blind spot especially at this point. You don’t have to stop as such but I would advise it. That way you can assess your surroundings without losing your positioning.
• f it’s safe then continue reversing and steer. I can’t give you an amount of turns to steer as all cars will differ with steering turns and the amount of lock they have. The best thing to do is to look through the windows on your left and look at where the kerb appears to ‘meet’ the side of the window you see it in. let’s say for example the kerb appears to be right in the corner of the window. Steer enough to keep the kerb in the very same place you first saw it. If you keep it in the same place you are following it fine. If the kerb moves away from it’s original position, you may be going astray.
• Even if you do this accurately the kerb will at some point disappear from the side window and shortly reappear in the back window. Use this short time to check your progress in the nearside door mirror and make any necessary adjustments.
• When the kerb appears in the rear window watch it move across towards the centre of it. When it reaches the centre of the rear window, straighten your wheels and keep the kerb again in the same place and you will be following it keeping parallel to the kerb. Better still, look out the rear window and look at where the car is actually heading, as you would using the windscreen when going forward!!
• Reverse back for three to four car lengths or until told to stop. Try not to block anyone’s driveway if selecting where to stop by yourself. Leaving this amount of room in front of you will allow any cars from behind you to approach the junction and be able to get into the correct position to turn left or right. Once you stop, secure the car and await instructions.
• When you drive away remember to check all around before you go, a common fault!
• Whilst doing all this you should be keeping a constant lookout for approaching traffic. When other vehicles get close you need to stop and make eye contact with the driver. They will then know it’s safe to proceed. Remember you are the one giving way. If a car approaches you from behind, stop and stare out of the rear window. Realising your intentions, some drivers will go around you and then you can continue. If the vehicle stays put, you will have to exit the road and pull in to let the vehicle in question pass by and do the whole manoeuvre again.
• Reversing around a corner using mirrors alone is a dangerous practice as your observations are so limited. The examiner will be looking for you to look in the direction of travel for the majority of the manoeuvre whilst checking all around frequently. There is no harm in checking your nearside mirror as long as you don’t just stare at it the whole time! Some kerbs may curve in such a way that you can’t actually see where you are going and will need to check the mirror more often. You need to compensate for this by looking around you even more frequently. As you can imagine your speed will need to be very slow in order to cram all this in!!

Tips :

• If you get confused which way to steer, just think to yourself, ‘to move towards the kerb, steer towards the kerb’. ‘To move away from the kerb, steer away from the kerb’.
• If you are heading towards the kerb and it’s looking like your going to hit it, then straighten your wheels to avoid it. You can always re apply your steering again if you have overreacted. Whatever you do, don’t straighten and then continue to steer right to make the rear of the car go out into the road. You will simply swing the front of the car towards the kerb and strike it with your front nearside wheel, which will be sticking out considerably.
• If you do straighten and are still on a collision course with the kerb then stop. Select first gear, check it’s safe and move forward several feet steering slightly to the left. Then select reverse, check all around and reverse again, this time trying not to repeat the same error as before! By steering left as you went forward you will find that the car has ‘come away’ from the kerb. You will not fail a test for moving forward to correct the manoeuvre.

Parallel Parking

For the purposes of a driving test you will reverse behind a single parked car and you will be given two car lengths to complete the manoeuvre in. You won’t be asked to park between two parked cars. If in reality you were to park between cars you would need at least one and a half car lengths to do it in safely.

Parallel parking is classed as the same manoeuvre as reversing into a car parking space, so it is unlikely you will have these two manoeuvres together in any given driving test.

• Once asked to perform the manoeuvre approach the parked car just as you would if you were intending to drive past it. Check your mirrors to see if anyone is following. If there is a car following some distance behind you or driving towards you, you might be best to apply a left signal to show your intentions. Try and draw up alongside the parked car about an arms length away and with your left door mirror roughly level with the front of the parked car. This is just to ensure you are positioned more forward than the parked car to maximise the use of space you have behind it.
• Once in this position select reverse gear as soon as possible to illuminate your rear white reversing lights and then apply the handbrake. Anyone approaching you from behind should then realise that you need some space and leave a suitable gap for you.
• All round observations. Make sure there are no approaching vehicles. Look over your left shoulder and reverse slowly. Just as the rear of your car starts to pass the back of the parked car, steer left. Remember as you steer left your front offside will swing out into the road so check your offside blind spot as you steer. Give way to any cars that are intending to drive past. Steer a lot but not full lock, as you will swing out wide.
• The best angle to approach the kerb is about 45*, it sounds technical but just look out of the back window and watch the kerb go across it. When the kerb disappears you will be at about the correct angle of approach so now straighten your wheels. The car will now be heading for the kerb and may start to roll fast if there is a steep camber on the road.
• Now the hard part, if we steer right too early you will be too far from the kerb. Too late and you might end up on it!! Reverse back and try and judge when your passenger is in line with the driver’s side of the parked car, just as you would if you were looking down the side of a car trying to look for small dent’s in the doors. When you feel that your passenger is in that position you are about the right distance from the kerb to steer right full lock. The front of the car will swing in towards the kerb.
• Whilst looking out of the rear window where you are going, keep a check on your left door mirror to see if your back wheel is going to hit the kerb. When you are becoming parallel with the kerb straighten your wheels. Remember that when you have the steering on full lock, the wheels stick out quite a lot and will strike the kerb if not ‘tucked in’ in time by straightening them. Once straight secure the car with you handbrake and select neutral.

Tips :

• Keep your speed to a minimum. When performing this manoeuvre for the first few times students tend to go too fast and end up hitting the kerb. You really need accurate clutch control for the first stage and feathered braking with the clutch down for the second stage where the car tends to roll by itself.
• If your rear nearside wheel is going to hit the kerb then stop the car. You are allowed to move the car forward and reverse again, you will not fail for doing this. To make a correction, apply the handbrake so you don’t roll back, select first gear and find the bite. Check all round and move forward a few feet and straighten your wheels then stop. Select reverse gear, check around and reverse back again (most likely letting the car roll slowly if on a sloping camber). Steer to the right again as fast as you can, full lock. This is giving you a second chance again to park the right distance from the kerb.
• If instead when you originally park you are going to be too far from the kerb, you need to spot it early and straighten your wheels to put the car closer to it, before steering right full lock again to put yourself parallel to it.
• If there are any pedestrians on the pavement walking by, stop and wait until they are clear of the space behind you. Never reverse towards people.
• I can’t stress enough how important it is to keep a look out for approaching cars and pedestrians and to look in the direction you are travelling.
• If you are having problems with remembering which way to steer, remember ‘Lvely Red Roses’ for Left, Right, Right.

Reversing Into a Parking Bay

Why reverse into a bay when you can drive forward into one? When driving forward into a bay there is the possibility of striking the side of a parked car as you swing in, and also the risk of the side of your car hitting the corner of a parked car as the rear wheels take a shorter route than the front! There is also the danger of reversing back out when your view is obscured.

There are two ways of performing this manoeuvre depending on how much space is available.

Method 1 :

• Position yourself so that you are 90 degrees to the parking bays. Let’s assume you are reversing to the left.
• Secure the car, select reverse gear, your white reversing lights will then show your intentions
• All round observations.
• Reverse back slowly, when you feel that the back of your vehicle is level with a white line steer left full lock.
• As the car swings round check to your right to ensure no cars are trying to drive past, also keep a look out for pedestrians.
• Check where the car is heading.
• After a short while you will see the left side white line appear in the left door mirror followed by the right hand line in your right door mirror.
• Adjust your steering accordingly to put the car equally between the lines.
• When the lines appear parallel straighten.
• Check all around for pedestrians as you reverse the car in to the space fully.
• When finished secure the car.

Method 2 :

• Select a space you wish to reverse into, let’s assume it’s again on the left.
• As you approach it and the front of the car draws level with it, steer to the right to turn away from it.
• You should then be able to look out of the rear window and see the space directly behind the car.
• Secure the car and select reverse.
• All round observations.
• Reverse back slowly steering as necessary to put the car equally between the lines.
• Check your door mirrors for accuracy but keep a constant all round look out for cars and pedestrians.
• When the car is fully in the space, secure the car.

Tips :

• Door mirrors are convex to give a wild angled view. This can ‘bend’ images and give misleading information on your true position. Check both door mirrors not just one, and get a balance of the two images you see. All round observations throughout are paramount.
• In terms of a driving test it won’t matter too much if the car is at an angle within the lines.
• You must be between the lines with none of your wheels touching them. If you can see the car is going to end up on a line, move forward a good distance and reverse back again. You won’t fail for doing this.
• Remember that even a small amount of steering when reversing will cause the front of the car to swing out possibly over a line.
• Although the door mirrors are ideal for checking your position, remember that is all you want to do with them, is ‘check’.
• You should be keeping a look out all around you and actually look at where you are going. Don’t rely solely on the mirrors.

Right Reverse

This manoeuvre is similar to the left reverse but with some positioning differences, so I will keep this section brief assuming you have understood the left reverse in full. Observations will generally be the opposite to what they were with left reverse.

If you are driving a van or a vehicle with restricted rear view it is easier to reverse into an opening on the right as you will be near the kerb offering you a better viewpoint of it and any approaching traffic. It might even be that there are no roads on the left to use!

• Starting as with the left reverse you will identify a road on the right. On approach position yourself near the centre of the road as you would if turning right. You will need to signal your intention to move over to the right hand side of the road, but not until you have passed the centre of the road on the right, or it may appear to others that you are turning right. Once you do this, ensuring that there is no oncoming traffic or traffic behind overtaking, move over to the right hand side of the road near to the kerb and stop a few car lengths away from the junction you wish to reverse into.
• Prepare the car in reverse and check around. Reverse back and stop when your rear offside wheel is at the point of turn.
• Stop and check all around giving way as necessary.
• Looking over your right shoulder, follow the kerb also keeping a frequent look out for approaching traffic from all directions.
• Once around the corner, straighten and reverse back following the right hand side kerb for about seven car lengths and stop. This should give you enough room to move across to the left hand side of the road when required and when safe and then approach the junction to turn left or right as instructed.

Stopping Distances

If your having trouble remembering stopping distances as quoted in the highway code there is a simple formula to work them out.

Firstly there is the ‘thinking distance’, which is the distance that your vehicle will travel in the time it will take you to see a hazard and then actually start to brake. Our reaction times are usually between 0.5 to 1 second but other factors can make them longer! Generally you will travel about the same number of ft (feet) as miles per hour that you are driving. So, if your travelling at 40mph you will travel about 40ft from seeing the hazard to actually engaging the brake.

We then have the ‘braking distance’. This distance is based on how far the average car would travel with the brakes engaged before coming to a complete stop. To work this out you will need to times the mph travelled by a steadily increasing figure (@), for example:

Speed (mph)	Formula (@)	Distance (feet)
20	20 x 1	= 20ft
30	30 x 1.5	= 45ft
40	40 x 2	= 80ft
50	50 x 2.5	= 125ft
60	60 x 3	= 180ft
70	70 x 3.5	= 245ft

By adding your Thinking Distance and Braking Distance together you will find the ‘Total Stopping Distance’.
Example 50mph : 50ft TD + 125ft BD = 175ft TSD

For speeds less than 20mph you should leave at least one car length for every 5mph.

Don’t forget wet surfaces can double your stopping distance and ice and snow can increase it by up to 10 times.

Distances below are in feet. To convert to metres 10ft=3metres.

MPH	Thinking Distance	+ Braking Distance	= Stopping Distance
20	20	20	40
30	30	45	75
40	40	80	120
50	50	125	175
60	60	180	240
70	70	245	315

Turn in the Road

Firstly make sure you are on a road wide enough to perform the manoeuvre within your ability. Is the location safe and lawful? Ensure there are no obstructions at the kerbsides such as trees or lampposts that you may collide with. You need a clear unobstructed view of the road in both directions. This will also ensure that you too will be seen by approaching traffic.

Remember that it up to you to give way to any traffic that approaches, they may want to drive past without stopping. Also give way to pedestrians that are using the pavement in front of you or behind you, never drive towards people.

The secret to this manoeuvre is SLOW speed and FAST steering.

Step 1 :

• Prepare the car in first gear.
• All round observations.
• If safe, use clutch control to move forward slowly.
• Steer quickly to the right to achieve full lock.
• As you go over the ‘crown’ of the road you may feel the car start to roll down the camber, if so, clutch down and gently use the footbrake to control the speed.
• As you near the opposite kerb steer left to straighten the wheels. This reduces the amount of work you need to do on the reverse and also reduces the possibility of damage to power steering motors.
• Stop the car before you hit or overhang the kerb.
• If necessary, apply the handbrake.

Step 2 :

• Prepare the car in reverse gear.
• All round observations.
• If safe, look over your left shoulder out the rear window.
• Reverse back slowly steering left.
• Again as you pass over the crown of the road you may feel the car roll down the camber, if so, clutch down and use the footbrake as necessary.
• Once over the ‘crown’ look right and steer right.
• Stop the car before you hit or overhang the kerb.
• If necessary, apply the handbrake.

Step 3 :

• Prepare the car in first gear.
• All round observations.
• If safe, drive away.
• If you find yourself getting close to the kerb as you drive away don’t risk striking it, repeat steps 2 & 3 again.

In terms of a driving test you won’t fail if you need to correct your manoeuvre by repeating steps 2 & 3 so don’t be afraid to do it if necessary, it’s better than hitting the kerb!
Never beckon other drivers to pass, let them decide for themselves on which course of action to take, but remember, you are giving way to them. Keep a good look out for other road users at all times!

Tests

Here is some more detailed information regarding the Theory test and the Practical Driving test.

The Theory Test.

You will need to study the Highway Code MANY times, and I recommend you purchase a Theory Question book containing hundreds of multiple choice questions to work through. If you have access to a PC at home then a CD ROM such as 'Driving Test Success' will really help you to prepare, and comes with a Hazard Perception Test CD too. The DSA also have publications such as 'Driving, The essential skills', which would be a useful source of information. The theory test is made up of two parts. Firstly you will need to answer 50 multiple choice questions and successfully answer 43 or more correctly to pass. You will then be required to watch a series of 14 video clips and identify developing hazards at the appropriate time in order to score points out of 5. You will need an overall score of 44 or more out of a possible 75 in order to successfully pass. There is a Theory test centre located at Abbey Lawns business park in Shrewsbury.

The Practical Driving Test.

I usually book practical driving tests to ensure it will not overlap with other test commitments. On the day of your test you will need to book your lesson for two hours. The two hours then gives us time for a drive round first to recap and practice, and then time for the test itself. You will need to take both parts of your licence and you will be expected to be able to read a number plate at 20.5 metres (67 feet). When you take the test it will start at a special test centre and you will be expected to drive on public roads accompanied by a DSA examiner (not your instructor). The test will be about 37 minutes in duration. The examiner will record any faults with your driving as either minor or serious. You are allowed up to 15 minor faults and not one serious fault in order to pass. Before a test is booked you will have completed your course and will have completed a few mock driving tests to prepare you. By the time you take your test you will know what you will need to do, so there shouldn't be any surprises! Nicedriving driving school uses the Shrewsbury Driving Test Centre located near Battlefield.

Useful Links

Driving and Government Agencies

Road safety information and useful advice for motorists in Shropshire	www.shropshirefire.gov.uk/Safety/road-safety.htm
Driving Instructors Asociation	www.driving.org
Driving Standards Agency	www.dsa.gov.uk
Pass Plus	www.passplus.org.uk
DVLA	www.dvla.gov.uk
THINK Road Safety	www.thinkroadsafety.gov.uk

Motoring Directories and Resource Websites

UK Motoring Directory - The home of British Motoring	http://www.ukmotoringdirectory.co.uk
Wanadrive - Everything you need to know about driving from applying for a licence to insurance	http://www.wanadrive.co.uk
Carpages - Motoring news to car reviews	http://www.carpages.co.uk

Looking for a Driving School in another part of the UK?

Target Tuition - Weekly & Intensive Driving Lessons in Enfield Barnet Southgate & North London	http://www.targettuition.co.uk
1st Miles Driving School - lessons in Portsmouth	http://www.1stmiles.co.uk
Findley's driving school - lessons in Warwickshire	http://www.findleys.co.uk
Driving school covering Bristol and Bath	http://www.newmansdrivingschool.co.uk
Driving lessons in Nottinghamshire	http://www.johnexley.co.uk
Driving lessons in Kent and South East London	http://www.bigredl.co.uk
Driving lessons for Preston,Leyland & Chorley	http://www.philcope.co.uk
Driving lessons in Lancaster, Morecambe and Heysham.	http://www.beyonddriving.co.uk
Driving lessons in the Slough/Reading.	http://www.galaxydriving.co.uk
Chris Baker, Driving Instructor based in Southampton.	http://www.driving-lessons-southampton.co.uk
Driving lessons in Slough, Windsor, Ascot and Maidenhead.	http://www.clearway-driver-training.com/